Ruby is one of the most iconic and sought-after gems in the world. What makes a ruby high quality & how do you tell if the ruby you’re looking at is desirable?
In this guide, we’ll explore everything you need to know about ruby quality—from color & clarity to origins & care. If you’re shopping for a ruby engagement ring, a birthstone gift, or just love red gems, this article will help you confidently understand what makes a ruby beautiful.
What Is a Ruby?
A ruby is the red variety of the mineral corundum, a simple aluminum oxide. Its rich red color comes from the presence of chromium, which also gives the stone a vibrant internal glow under light—called fluorescence. While sapphires & rubies both belong to the corundum family, only red corundum is classified as ruby.
Pink Sapphire or Ruby?
There’s a fine line between ruby & pink sapphire. Some lighter rubies may be classified as pink sapphires depending on hue and saturation. In general, a gem is labeled ruby when it has a dominant red tone—but lab standards can vary slightly by country and institution. In today’s world, pink sapphires are not always less valuable than rubies.
The History and Symbolism of Ruby
The Estrela de Fura ruby. Photo: Sotheby’s.
Known as the “king of gems,” ruby has been treasured for thousands of years. In ancient cultures, it symbolized power, passion & protection. Warriors once believed wearing a ruby into battle could make them invincible.
One of the most famous “rubies” in the world—The Black Prince’s Ruby—is not a ruby but actually a red spinel, a more complex aluminum oxide often mined from the same sources. This was not discovered until the 20th century. The Black Prince now sits in the British Imperial State Crown, a striking reminder of “ruby’s” royal status throughout history.
Recently, the Estrela de Fura—Portuguese for “Star of Fura”—has become one of the most extraordinary rubies ever discovered. Unearthed in Mozambique in 2022 by Fura Gems, this breathtaking gem weighed 101 carats in its rough form. After expert cutting, it emerged as a 55.22-carat ruby of exceptional quality, boasting a vivid red hue, remarkable clarity, and unmatched fluorescence. In June 2023, it shattered records at auction, selling for over $34.8 million—the highest price ever paid for a ruby.
Where Do Rubies Come From?
High-quality rubies come from a handful of important sources around the world, including:
- Madagascar & Thailand: Often Thai rubies are actually Burmese.
- Mozambique: A newer but major source of fine rubies.
- Sri Lanka (Ceylon): One of the oldest known ruby sources, active since 543 BC.
- Burma (Myanmar): Historically known for producing the most prized rubies with “pigeon’s blood” red color.
A&L lab-grown ruby and lab-grown diamond ring.
Origin can affect the value & appearance of a ruby. Burmese rubies, for example, are often more fluorescent & deeply saturated due to low iron content.
Lab-grown rubies have the same chemical composition, crystal structure & rich red color as natural rubies—they’re simply created in a controlled environment rather than formed over millions of years in the earth. First developed in the early 1900s, these rubies can be visually stunning & are often more affordable, making them a popular choice.
How to Tell the Quality of a Ruby: 4 Key Factors
Like diamonds, rubies are evaluated on four main criteria:
1. Color (The Most Important Factor)
The best-quality rubies exhibit a vivid, pure red hue—sometimes with a hint of purple. Gemologists assess three elements of color:
- Hue: The dominant color (red, in this case).
- Tone: How light or dark the color appears.
- Saturation: The intensity or vividness of the red.
The most beautiful rubies have strong saturation and a medium to medium-dark tone. Stones that are lighter may be classified as pink sapphires, while overly dark rubies may appear dull or brown.
2. Clarity
Clarity in rubies is the absence of inclusions (internal characteristics). Most rubies have some natural inclusions, and completely flawless rubies are extremely rare. Clarity becomes more important when inclusions:
- Reduce transparency
- Appear near the center of the stone
- Affect durability
Inclusions such as silk (tiny rutile needles) are common and even desirable in some high-end rubies, especially Burmese ones.
3. Cut
Ruby is a tough gemstone, but cutting is still a skilled art. A well-cut ruby will:
- Maximize brilliance
- Minimize the appearance of inclusions
- Enhance the richness of the color
Because rubies are rare in large sizes, cutters in previous centuries often prioritized weight retention, resulting in non-standard shapes, excessive or insufficient depth & excessive bulging.
4. Weight
High-quality rubies over one carat are rare. As carat size increases, so does rarity—especially when color and clarity are also top-tier. Fine rubies rival diamonds in price per carat.
Are Rubies Treated or Enhanced?
Most rubies on the market today undergo heat treatment to improve their color and clarity. This permanent & industry-accepted method significantly increases the ruby’s beauty.
Other treatment—such as fracture filling or dyeing—is undesirable and can reduce the stone’s value. If you’re investing in a fine ruby, buy from an established AGS jeweler with an AGS accredited gem lab.
How Much Is a Ruby Worth?
The price of a ruby varies dramatically based on quality. Fine rubies can sell for tens of thousands per carat, and museum-quality stones have broken auction records around the globe. Here’s what impacts the value of a ruby:
Color:
The closer to pure fire engine red, the higher the value.
Clarity:
The fewer the inclusions the higher the value.
Carat Size:
Larger, high-quality rubies are exponentially rarer.
Cut:
The more brilliant the ruby, the higher the value.
Origin:
Burmese tend to fetch premium prices. Gemology is beginning to understand the markers which indicate the point origin of a gem. However, until origin science is perfected, stated origin may be suspect & should have little impact on value. We recommend you buy for beauty, not source.
Treatment:
Natural, untreated rubies are very rare and may command higher values.
How to Care for a Ruby
Rubies are durable—a 9 on the Mohs scale of hardness—making them an excellent choice for rings & daily wear. However, proper care is still essential.
Ruby Cleaning Tips:
- Safe method: Warm, soapy water and a soft brush.
- Bring to your local AGS jeweler at least quarterly (or just before a special event) for complimentary cleaning & security check.
Why We Love Rubies at Argo & Lehne
At Argo & Lehne, we’re continually inspired by the timeless beauty of rubies. There’s something undeniably captivating about a fine ruby—the depth of color, the vibrant glow, the way it pairs so effortlessly with diamonds and gold. It’s a gem that never fails to make a statement, whether set in a classic ring or a bold, modern design. We especially love how rubies balance elegance & intensity—making them a favorite for both everyday wear and truly special occasions.
Our team selects each ruby for its color, cut & character, and we’re always excited to share our latest favorites. Click here to view our current ruby collection.
Ready to fall in love with ruby too? Feast your eyes on a few beauties from our collection:
A poetic union of passion and brilliance, this toi et moi ring entwines a lab-grown fiery ruby and sparkling diamond—two souls forever side by side. It’s a symbol of love’s perfect harmony, where every glance at your hand is a reminder of two hearts joined as one.
Radiating romance, this lavish double halo ring surrounds a deep crimson ruby with a dazzling embrace of diamonds.
A vintage-inspired pendant weaving together golden nostalgia and timeless romance. A vibrant ruby at its heart framed by intricate diamond accents, capturing the essence of a love story both classic & endlessly enchanting.
These Retro-era “fireworks” earrings burst with joy and brilliance, like a celebration frozen in time. Rubies radiate with diamonds in a dynamic starburst design—bold, playful, undeniably romantic.
Delicately blooming with movement & sparkle, these vintage en tremblant earrings capture the charm of a garden in motion. Rich rubies & diamonds are nestled in a romantic, radiant & utterly enchanting golden floral burst.
Elegant and full of vintage allure, this 1960s swirl pin sweeps with dazzling rhythm. Streams of vivid rubies & sparkling diamonds curve gracefully, a ribbon in motion—classic glamour with a passionate twist.
Final Thoughts: What Makes a Ruby Valuable?
If you remember one thing from this guide (for any gem), let it be this: Color is king. A vivid, richly saturated red ruby—Burmese, Mozambican, or otherwise—is one of the rarest & most valuable gemstones in the world.
If you’re drawn to its symbolism, sparkle, or bold beauty, a quality ruby is always a timeless choice.
Shop Ruby Jewelry at Argo & Lehne
Visit our showroom or shop online to explore ruby engagement rings, birthstone pieces, and collector-worthy ruby gems.
Need help choosing the right ruby? Contact our expert team who are happy to guide you.
